Walking in the Howgill Fells

Hmmm.. that was the plan, anyway! A week away over the New Year 2001 period to relax in some of England's finest scenery was the purpose of the trip but "proper" winter conditions saw some changes to the planned walks. After several years of fairly mild winter weather, a couple of days after Christmas saw a period of very cold weather, even with about 2cm of snow covering most of the country.

Of course, us Southern softies had not seen this for several years and it caused its usual chaos on the roads. Luckily, the actual trip up north was done in sunny but still very cold weather. The only problem was trying to keep the windscreen clear of the all the salt that had been spread on the motorway network.

Surprisingly, the depth of snow seemed to be the same but the main problem which prevented access to high points of the Howgills was the persistent low cloud. So, plans were quickly revised and lower level walks were plotted. As this was my first trip to the Howgill Fells, I was determined to pick the cream of the walks in the area. This proved extremely difficult as the whole area seems to be full of superlatives.

I tried to simply the task and I resorted to a guide book. I can thoroughly recommend "Walking in the Howgills" by Mary Welsh and published by Sigma Press (ISBN: 1 85058 600 4). This has 32 routes and most seem to be about 6 - 7 miles long. With a bit of careful planning, it is possible to combine some of the routes to form longer walks and to use the suggested walk as a basis for something longer. However, as the weather was still bitingly cold and the hours of daylight quite limited, I was more than content to do most of the walks "as is".

I will do my usual notes of the routes and add sketch maps in the fullness of time, but in the meantime, here is a photo essay of some of the walks.

1. Newbiggin-on-Lune - Ravenstonedale (31 December 2000)

Beckstones Farm The climb up from Ravenstonedale Upper reaches of Smardale Gill Smardale Gill viaduct
Beckstones Farm, to the south of Newbiggin-on-Lune. This is not a black and white photo; its just that snowy conditions tend to obliterate other colours! The climb up from Ravenstonedale with Green Bell, one of the main peaks in the Howgills, in the far distance. Looking back to the upper reaches of Smardale Gill. Smardale Gill viaduct used to carry trains heading from the Durham coalfields to the furnaces in barrow for the production of iron. The railway closed in 1962 and the viaduct fell into disrepair. It was restored in 1990 by the Northerm Viaduct Trust and now forms part of the Smardale Gill Nature Reserve.
Near Brownber Farm
The old railway bridge, built to carry the Durham and South Lancashire Union Railway in 1860, and closed just over 100 years later in 1962.

2. Kirkby Stephen - Pendragon & Lammerside Castle (1 January 2001)

Near to Frank's Bridge over River Eden More pleasant walking heading towards Nateby Pendragon Castle Looking back towards Southwaite
A very pleasant stretch of the walk, alongside the River Eden. More pleasant walking heading towards Nateby. Pendragon Castle, reputedly named after Uther Pendragon, the father of King Arthur. It was owned in the 12th century by Hugh de Morville, who was involved in the murder of Thomas a Becket. Looking back towards Southwaite. The remains of the snow that fell on New Year's Eve can be seen on the hills beyond.
Wharton Hall
Wharton Hall, erected in the 14th century.

3. Rawthey Bridge - Uldale (3 January 2001)

Looking down on the cap parking area at Rawthey Bridge Englands green and pleasant land Looking towards Wandale Hill Two friends
Looking down on the cap parking area at Rawthey Bridge. Although it does not look it, it was quite a climb to this point. That strange light affect on the hills behind is caused by something called the sun! This is more like it! Rolling hills in the weak winter sunshine. Only two days ealier, these were covered with snow. Looking twoards Wandale Hill, almost lost in the shadow of the clouds. Around my normal walking area of central southern England, sheep run away. Here, they do the complete opposite and, on several occasions, I was often followed by flocks of them! On the fields opposite, the return part of the walk can be seen by the white farm house towards the top right of the photo.
Lower falls Looking back down the river Uldale Force Two friends
The Lower falls of the River Rawthey. The best view is seen from the bridge (lower left hand corner) and the bridge itself will be crossed on the return journey. This part of the walk is an there and back, so there are two chances to enjoy the river allow this stretch. To get to the top falls, Uldale Force, it is necessary to climb quite high above the river. In some parts, it is quite vertigous! Uldale Force, the objective of our walk. Although the thaw had set in, there was still plenty of ice around and great care was needed on the rocks. We have retraced our steps and are now standing on the wooden footbridge partly seen in an ealier photo. This view shows the cascading Lower Falls.

Swadeldale (3 January 2001)

Wainwrath Force
Wainwrath Force, Swaledale. Funny, I thought "Forces" were usually reasonally high falls! Nevertheless, these made an interesting spot to rest whilst taking some refreshment.

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